Highway 61 Revisited

Welcome to New Orleans! Despite the devastation wreaked by hurricane Katrina some 10 years ago, which resulted in the city population falling by nearly 50%, New Orleans has regained its soul.

Early Birds. New Orleans has many major attractions, from the world-renowned French Quarter and Bourbon Street’s notorious nightlife to the historic Pontchartrain Hotel, the many 19th-century mansions, and on to Magazine Street, with its many boutique stores and antique shops.

New Orleans H-D is on the way out of town, and the scenic start takes you south into the bayou to Houma. This is Cajun heartland, so soak up the atmosphere, take a walk round the historic centre and grab some real Cajun food before you leave. Continue north to pick up the I-10 to Baton Rouge. You skirt this intriguing city, Louisiana’s state capital and a major port. It has a reputation for heavy traffic and if you do visit, allow plenty of time. Unusually, the original state Capitol was not a copy of the one in Washington, but a neogothic structure, and its replacement built in the art deco style!

And now the easy riding starts as you pick up Highway 61 for the first time, and stay with it for the next 80 miles or so. Your first overnight stop is Natchez. This is a small city steeped in southern charm, and the start of the Natchez Trace Parkway, which commemorates the ancient trade route through Mississippi, Alabama and Tennessee, and a lovely scenic ride. Natchez was the original capital of Mississippi and it is located on a bluff overlooking the mighty river, with many fine antebellum houses, some open to the public.

Take a stroll around Natchez before you leave, maybe visit one of the antebellum houses. Leaving Natchez, you can swap Highway 61 for the Parkway for about 25 miles until you reach Port Gibson. Hwy 61 then tracks the Mississippi all the way to Vicksburg. Your hotel is on the south side of the city, a little out of town, but with good views of the river. The rest of the day is yours to explore this historic city. A ‘must-do’ is the National Military Park. The 47-day siege of Vicksburg in 1863 was one of the most significant military actions of the American Civil War, and is considered by many to be the turning point in the Civil War. The Illinois State Memorial has 47 steps, one for every day Vicksburg was besieged. There are over 18,000 bodies buried here, of which over 12,000 are unidentified.

Leaving Vicksburg, Hwy 61 takes you north into the Mississippi Delta. From now on, you need to let your Blues Trail Markers take over. Your route takes you near some but can’t cover many of them, so please do your homework. There’s over 170 markers now. Check out the website, download the app, and plan your day. How about Leland, birthplace of Johnny Winter and Kermit the Frog, Tutwiler (W.C. Handy) and on to John Lee Hooker’s marker before riding to Clarksdale. However, the options are almost endless, so please do your research before you set out.

Clarksdale of course is the site of the ‘Crossroads’, Ground Zero and many more blues sites. And we think you’ll like your accommodation tonight – a bit of a surprise!

Highway 61 takes you straight into Memphis, but how about a detour across the river into Arkansas, which gives you a great view of Memphis as you cross back over.

The day is yours to explore this musical icon – Graceland, Stax, Sun Studios, Beale St, the list is endless.

Back in the saddle, a detour brings you to Nutbush this morning. Then head for Cairo, once a vital river port, before continuing on the Great River Road to St Louis, home of Chuck Berry, with its famous Memorial Arch. It’s a long day, but the riding is easy and the stops welcoming.

Continuing north, you can swap Hwy 61 with the Great River Road and ride both banks of the Mississippi to Davenport. Make sure you stop at Fort Madison for a tour of the fort, where tribal leader Black Hawk attacked the US garrison for the British in the war of 1812.

More of the same today as you continue following the mighty Mississippi. However, the scenery changes as the river flows between hills for much of the way, making for some winding roads through woodlands, and spectacular views and river crossings. Again, you can ride either bank of the river. Make time to stop at Galena, once one of the most important cities in Illinois, and a major river city. It was also home to Ulysses S. Grant, Civil War General and president. In his time, the population of 14,000 was over three times the current population. The town is now considered one of the top ten charming small towns in America, and a perfect tourist stopover. And how about a detour to the American National Motorcycle Museum in Anamosa!

A lovely morning ride along the banks of the meandering Wisconsin River brings you to Sauk City. In the afternoon, continue on a country ride to Milwaukee, or visit the state capital, Madison, a bustling university town set between 2 lakes.

The day is yours to enjoy Milwaukee, with its old downtown area, iconic art gallery, and of course the Harley-Davidson Museum, and hopefully there’s time to see the Motor Company headquarters at Juneau Rd.

A short ride to return your motorcycle, and we’ll take you to the airport in time for your flight home.